Sunday, 23 December 2012
Coastal processes
Key points:
Waves are made by wind blowing over the surface of the sea. The power of waves is one of the most significant forces of coastal change.
The size and energy of a wave is influenced by the wind's strength, how long it's been blowing and the fetch, which is how far the wave's travelled.
Swash is when a wave breaks and water washes up the beach.
Backwash is when the water then runs back down the beach.
Abrasion is where waves bring bits of rock and sand with them and grind the cliffs down like sandpaper.
Attrition is where waves cause rocks and pebbles onshore to smash together getting smaller and smoother.
Solution is acids contained in sea water slowly dissolving rocks such as chalk and limestone.
Longshore drift is when waves strike at an angle, moving material along the beach.
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